5 Tomato Growing Mistakes I’ll Never Make Again

5 Tomato Growing Mistakes I’ll Never Make Again — And You Shouldn’t Either

by Darrell Smith, Owner of DH Garden Centre & DH Landscape Solutions, Vancouver


5 Tomato Growing Mistakes I’ll Never Make Again — And You Shouldn’t Either

5 Tomato Growing Mistakes I’ll Never Make Again — And You Shouldn’t Either

 

There’s something magical about growing your own tomatoes.

Maybe it’s the joy of watching a green seedling stretch toward the sun, or the moment you pick your first ruby-red fruit still warm from the vine. For many of us, tomatoes are the gateway to gardening — our first love in the vegetable world. And for good reason: they’re delicious, versatile, and honestly, who doesn’t dream of a backyard harvest worthy of a chef’s kiss?

But let me be straight with you. As much as I love tomatoes, they’ve also driven me up the wall more times than I can count. I’ve grown them every which way over the past 25 years — in-ground, in raised beds, in pots on patios, even up trellises that collapsed mid-season (that’s another story for another day).

And in all those years, I’ve made every tomato-growing mistake you can think of.

So today, I want to share with you the top five tomato-growing mistakes I’ll never make again. These aren’t just tips — they’re hard-earned lessons. Whether you’re a first-timer or you’ve been gardening in Vancouver for years, these insights can help you turn tomato trouble into tomato triumph.

Let’s dig in.


Mistake #1: Ignoring Disease Prevention at the Base

You know those low-hanging leaves near the bottom of your tomato plant? The ones below the first flower cluster?

Yeah. Those guys.

I used to leave them alone, figuring they were doing their job. After all, more leaves mean more photosynthesis, right?

Wrong. In fact, those lower leaves are basically disease magnets.

In Vancouver’s damp climate, when rain or irrigation water hits the soil, it splashes up onto those leaves — bringing soil-borne pathogens right along with it. That’s how early blight and other nasty fungal diseases sneak in and wreck your season.

The fix? Prune the bottom 6–12 inches of your tomato plants once they’re well-established. Especially anything below the first flower cluster. This simple step improves airflow and dramatically reduces the risk of disease.

And here’s a pro tip: if you’re transplanting tomatoes deep (which you should — they root along their stems!), don’t snip those lower branches the same day you plant. Prune them 3–5 days in advance so the wounds have time to heal. Otherwise, you’re opening the door to infection at the worst possible moment.

if you're transplanting tomatoes deep (which you should — they root along their stems!), don’t snip those lower branches the same day you plant

If· you’re transplanting tomatoes deep (which you should — they root along their stems!), don’t snip those lower branches the same day you plant

 


Mistake #2: Underfeeding Hungry Plants

Let me tell you something most folks don’t realize: tomatoes are heavy feeders.

A lot of gardeners in Vancouver think tossing in some compost at planting time is enough. And while we’re all about organic gardening at DH Garden Centre, even the best compost isn’t going to cut it alone.

Vegetable gardens — especially ones growing fruiting crops like tomatoes — are not self-sustaining ecosystems. Unlike a forest, they don’t have constant organic input and natural nutrient cycling. That’s why we have to feed our tomatoes consistently if we want them to thrive.

My personal routine? It’s simple and fully organic:

  1. At transplant:

    • Mix in a granular all-purpose organic fertilizer (something like a 5-5-5 or 5-3-3).

    • Add bone meal for phosphorus and calcium (this helps root growth and prevents blossom end rot).

    • Water it all in with fish emulsion.

  2. Every 2 weeks:

    • Repeat the process. Don’t skip!

Fish emulsion is my secret sauce — not just for tomatoes, but also for cucumbers, peppers, and squash. And yes, it’s smelly. But your plants will love you for it.

Can’t go 100% organic? No judgment here. Even if you use synthetic fertilizers like Jacks 20-20-20 or Miracle-Gro Tomato, the important thing is to consistently feed your plants and not let your soil go barren. Organic or not, your soil needs love too.

And if you need help choosing the right fertilizer, just swing by DH Garden Centre in Vancouver — we’ve got everything you need, and we’ll walk you through it step by step.

A lot of gardeners in Vancouver think tossing in some compost at planting time is enough. And while we’re all about organic gardening at DH Garden Centre, even the best compost isn’t going to cut it alone.

A lot of gardeners in Vancouver think tossing in some compost at planting time is enough. And while we’re all about organic gardening at DH Garden Centre, even the best compost isn’t going to cut it alone.

 


Mistake #3: Overpruning Like a Robot

Ah, the infamous “sucker debate.”

I’ve had customers show up at our garden centre in Vancouver proudly declaring they’re removing every single sucker from their tomato plants because that’s what YouTube said.

Here’s the thing. That advice might work in a commercial greenhouse — but it’s not ideal for your backyard.

Pruning isn’t bad. But overdoing it? That’s where people go wrong. And it’s often irreversible, especially with determinate or dwarf varieties. These guys grow to a set size and produce fruit all at once. If you prune off too many leaves or suckers, you’re literally cutting off your future harvest.

With indeterminate tomatoes — the kind that just keep growing — you do have more wiggle room. But even then, be strategic.

Ask yourself:

  • Is this sucker competing with the main stem?

  • Will removing this improve airflow?

  • Is the plant outgrowing my trellis?

If the answer is yes, go ahead and prune. But if you’re cutting just because some article said “remove all suckers” — pause.

A healthy, bushy plant with a few suckers will often produce more tomatoes and resist disease better than a single-stemmed stick struggling in the heat.

A healthy, bushy plant with a few suckers will often produce more tomatoes and resist disease better than a single-stemmed stick struggling in the heat.

A healthy, bushy plant with a few suckers will often produce more tomatoes and resist disease better than a single-stemmed stick struggling in the heat.

 


Mistake #4: Planting Too Late

This one’s for all my fellow west coast gardeners who think May is “early enough.”

I hate to break it to you, but here in Vancouver — with our mild, wet springs and short summer window — timing is everything.

If you plant your tomatoes too late, they might not get enough time to fruit before the fall rains and cooler nights return. On the flip side, planting too early means risking cold soil and stunted growth.

The sweet spot?

Late April to early May is generally ideal for transplanting your tomatoes here on the west coast. Especially if you’re using raised beds or row covers to warm the soil faster. You want to get your plants established before the heat ramps up, but not so early that a late cold snap sets them back.

Every year at DH Garden Centre, I have folks come in mid-June asking why their tomatoes aren’t flowering. Often, they missed the early planting window — and now the plants are struggling to catch up.

The good news? We’re always happy to help you figure out the right planting schedule based on the weather that year. And yes, we’ll even remind you to harden off your seedlings before they go out!

Late April to early May is generally ideal for transplanting your tomatoes here on the west coast.

Late April to early May is generally ideal for transplanting your tomatoes here on the west coast.

 


Mistake #5: Believing the “Full Sun” Myth

I know, I know — the plant tags say “Full Sun.”

But here’s the truth: most tomatoes don’t like being scorched by the intense summer sun. They evolved as forest-floor vines, creeping through dappled light, shaded by taller trees. That’s their happy place.

Now, I’m not saying grow your tomatoes in full shade. They do need a good amount of sun, especially early in the season. But once the UV index climbs in June and July, your plants can suffer. The leaves get sun-scalded. The fruits stop setting. The pests move in like they own the place.

That’s why shade cloth changed everything for me.

In my own Vancouver garden — and in many of the landscaping jobs I’ve done through DH Landscape Solutions — installing a simple 40% shade cloth from late May through early September has extended my tomato harvest by up to two extra months. I’m not exaggerating.

It reduces heat stress, slows down disease, and keeps the plants going well into late summer. And it’s easy to install — especially over raised beds or trellised rows.


Final Thoughts: Lessons from a Lifelong Gardener

At DH Garden Centre, we’re more than just a place to pick up plants and supplies — we’re a community of growers who believe in learning together, growing together, and celebrating every tomato we get to harvest (even the ugly ones).

So, if you’ve struggled with tomatoes in the past, don’t give up. These five mistakes are easy to fix once you recognize them. And if you’re ever in doubt, just drop by and ask — I’m always happy to share what I’ve learned, and maybe save you a few headaches along the way.

Remember, gardening isn’t about perfection. It’s about progress. It’s about trying, failing, learning, and growing — just like those tomato vines climbing toward the sun.


Need Help With Tomatoes This Season?

Come visit us at DH Garden Centre, located in the heart of Kitsilano, Vancouver. We’ve got healthy tomato starts, organic fertilizers, shade cloth, and all the guidance you need to grow a harvest that makes you proud.

📍 3742 West 10th Avenue, Vancouver, BC
🌱 www.dhgardencentre.com

Let’s grow together!

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